Learn the ABCs of black skin care

By CLOE CABRERA
MEDIA GENERAL NEWS SERVICE
Published: August 7, 2008

Black is beautiful, baby. But it takes a little work to keep it that way.

Skin disorders don’t discriminate, but conditions like hyperpigmentation, razor bumps and keloids befall blacks more often than other ethnic groups.

We sat down with Dr. Thomas M. Taylor of the Florida Westcoast Skin and Cancer Center to talk about common black skin care concerns and how to secure beautiful dark skin at any age.

Hyperpigmentation/dark spots: Hyperpigmentation is a darkening of the skin that happens when the cells have been injured. A cut, scrape, lesion, even a pimple can set the stage for hyperpigmentation.

“Anytime you traumatize your skin, you’re going to get hyperpigmentation,“ Taylor says. “We blacks don’t get red, we get dark.“

While the dark spots can fade over time, it’s not a sure thing.

Taylor says a 0.5 percent hydroquinone cream, which can be purchased over the counter, can be effective in fading dark spots from acne and other skin imperfections. Don’t apply it to your entire face or body, only on the dark spots in the morning.

For faster results, a 1 percent to 2 percent hydroquinone cream can be obtained by prescription from a dermatologist. Combined with a retinoid, it can be applied at night to speed the fading process.

Because dark skin is so vulnerable to pigmentation, Taylor recommends that any type of cosmetic procedure, however benign, be performed by a doctor.

Ingrown hairs/razor bumps: It’s not the color of the skin, but the curl in the hair that causes this condition. The shape of the hair shaft is curved, not straight, for blacks, which makes it the source of ingrown hairs and razor bumps.

Shaving too close can lead to the curled hair growing back into the skin, resulting in acne-like bumps. Razor bumps can itch and can become infected.

Taylor recommends taking a hot shower before shaving to soften the hairs. Use a shaving gel for sensitive skin and leave it on for several minutes before shaving. Shave in the direction of beard growth and don’t shave over the same area twice; don’t stretch the skin when shaving and use an unscented moisturizing aftershave.

Men who suffer from razor bumps should avoid shaving daily.

“Shaving every other day is going to reduce razor bumps,“ Taylor says, rubbing his own day-old stubble. “I don’t shave everyday.“

Keloids: If you have dark skin, your chances of developing keloids - hard, thick, raised scars that project from the skin - are greater than if you’re white. You’re also at greater risk if you have a family history of keloids.

Minor skin injuries, pimples, even insect bites can lead to keloids. And while they can form on any part of the body, the chest, back, earlobes and arms are especially susceptible. No one knows why keloids develop, Taylor says. But the best treatment is cortisone shot directly into the keloid, he says. It will usually flatten in a few months, although it can recur.

It’s widely believed that cocoa butter can fade keloids and scars. Taylor says that’s a myth, but “it sure smells good.“

Taylor offers another piece of advice: “If you have dark skin don’t get tattoos or multiple body piercings.“

Hair loss - Hot combs, pressing irons, chemical relaxers, tight braids, heavy hair extensions and infrequent hair washings can all contribute to hair loss.

The most common type of hair loss among black women is called central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. It starts at the crown and spreads outward in a circular pattern. The area can be as small as a dime or as large as a pancake.

“This is something that goes along with many years of abuse of the hair and not shampooing,“ Taylor says. “I usually start noticing it in patients in their early 20s.“

Women experiencing hair loss should see a dermatologist to make sure there are no internal health issues contributing to the problem.

In the meantime, “practice adequate hair hygiene” and shampoo the hair once a week. (Black women - especially those who use relaxers - generally wash their hair every two weeks.) Avoid heavy oils on the scalp, and stop getting perms until the condition of the hair improves.

“I can’t promise patients the hair will grow back,“ Taylor says. “The goal is to keep the hair that you have.“

Black does burn: Just because you have dark skin, it doesn’t mean you don’t need sunscreen. Everyone should wear sunscreen, Taylor says.

It’s true that the pigment in darker skin offers some protection against the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays. But that shouldn’t lull people with darker skin into a false sense of security, he says.

“It takes longer for us to burn, but we burn,“ Taylor says. “Minorities do get skin cancer, it’s very rare, but it happens.“

In blacks, melanoma lesions show up on the extremities, especially the soles of the feet, the fingernail beds or the palms of the hand, Taylor says.

Dark skin has increased epidermal melanin that provides a natural skin protection factor (SPF) - a measure of how long skin covered with sunscreen takes to burn compared with uncovered skin.

Black skin has a natural SPF that filters twice as much UV radiation as white skin for example. But even black people should wear an SPF of at least 15 if they are going to be out in the sun, Taylor says.